{"id":177,"date":"2013-09-05T18:19:12","date_gmt":"2013-09-05T22:19:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/getitright.pmss.net\/?p=177"},"modified":"2019-11-25T22:47:08","modified_gmt":"2019-11-26T03:47:08","slug":"177","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/?p=177","title":{"rendered":"DANCING IN THE CABBAGE PATCH Weaving at PMSS Beginnings"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2 style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">WEAVING AT PMSS &#8211; BEGINNINGS<\/h2>\n<p>One might say that Pine Mountain was\u00a0conceived\u00a0among coverlets.\u00a0 Weaving at Pine Mountain Settlement School certainly was encouraged by the\u00a0re-discovery of the craft of coverlet weaving and the enthusiastic collecting of mountain weaving near the turn of the last century. \u00a0Katherine Pettit, founder of Pine Mountain Settlement School and earlier of Hindman Settlement School, was an avid collector of &#8220;kivers.&#8221; \u00a0Her interest in the exquisite craft of coverlet weaving kept her roaming the mountains in the early years of the twentieth century in search of new patterns and techniques. \u00a0 It was the search for beautiful mountain &#8220;kivers&#8221; that kept\u00a0Pettit journeying across the Eastern Kentucky region and eventually to the Pine Mountain valley in Harlan County, Kentucky.\u00a0 There, in the long\u00a0valley on the north side of the Pine Mountain she established one of the most unique of the Appalachian settlement schools.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_523\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1099a_mod.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-523\" class=\"wp-image-523 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1099a_mod.jpg\" alt=\"Vl_34_1099a_mod\" width=\"1000\" height=\"736\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1099a_mod.jpg 1000w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1099a_mod-300x220.jpg 300w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1099a_mod-624x459.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-523\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Neighbors in the Pine Mountain Valley with coverlet hanging behind mother, two children and dog. c. 1920s.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Pettit\u00a0often traveled from Hindman in Knott County, where she had established her first school in the early years of the twentieth century. \u00a0Even before the founding of Hindman, in 1901, Pettit was into her third summer season\u00a0in the eastern Kentucky mountains at a location\u00a0known as &#8220;Sassafrass.&#8221; She and her adventuresome colleagues had already journeyed to many of the remote valleys and hollows of nearby Harlan, Perry and Letcher counties where she frequently\u00a0came into contact with mountain weavers. \u00a0She soon began to search for coverlets to purchase\u00a0and also found her interest in the craft gave her a sound introduction to many mountain families. While looking for homespun coverlets she soon discovered more than the coverlet.\u00a0 She discovered the weavers and their humble but rich skills, their ancient culture, and their stoic resourcefulness.\u00a0Theirs was a life-style that she would soon come to cherish, partially adopt and commit to &#8220;raising up.&#8221;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_524\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1089c_mod.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-524\" class=\"wp-image-524 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1089c_mod.jpg\" alt=\"Vl_34_1089c_mod\" width=\"1000\" height=\"663\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1089c_mod.jpg 1000w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1089c_mod-300x198.jpg 300w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_34_1089c_mod-624x413.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-524\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Pine Mountain neighbor with her spinning wheel. c. 1915.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In Harlan county she \u00a0found the distance from the rapidly industrializing world she desired and she expanded on her Hindman experiences. \u00a0She \u00a0rapidly reached out to her many contacts and built\u00a0a rustic home and a school dedicated to serving the people of the remote Pine Mountain valley and nearby hollows. She did not, however become a recluse.<\/p>\n<p>When she came to Pine Mountain in 1913, and with the help of William Creech\u00a0and the families living in the valley,\u00a0Pettit established\u00a0a school founded on the principles of the more urban settlement houses found in Chicago, New York, Boston and other locations. She recruited educators and workers from those early urban settlement schools and women&#8217;s colleges and sowed the seeds of a progressive educational program.\u00a0 What she created was a settlement school that adopted a unique response the urban settlement house ethos. \u00a0While weaving in the urban settlements had often depended on teaching weaving that was modeled\u00a0on practices found in the Arts and Craft&#8217;s Movement and in Scandinavian models, Pettit&#8217;s models were already established in the mountains of Kentucky and other areas of the Southern Appalachians. \u00a0 Weaving for Pettit and for the Pine Mountain community was an integral part of a response to the legacy of many families and the demands of a rural environment that was still in a pioneering and subsistence mode.<\/p>\n<p><div id=\"attachment_5235\" style=\"width: 635px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5235\" class=\"size-large wp-image-5235\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/X_099_workers_2527l_mod-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"352\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/X_099_workers_2527l_mod-1024x576.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/X_099_workers_2527l_mod-300x169.jpg 300w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/X_099_workers_2527l_mod-624x351.jpg 624w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/X_099_workers_2527l_mod.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 625px) 100vw, 625px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-5235\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beating flax using a wooden flax beater. Ethel de Long [?] X_099_workers_2527l_mod.jpg<\/p><\/div>Farming was the other foundational principle she integrated into the school&#8217;s core mission. Weaving and farming\u00a0go together well and well they served Pine Mountain for many years. \u00a0Pettit&#8217;s interest and promotion of weaving pre-dates the important work of <a href=\"https:\/\/archive.org\/details\/bookofhandwovenc00hall\"><strong>Eliza Calver Hall and her 1912, <\/strong><\/a><em><strong>A Book of Hand-Woven Coverlets<\/strong>. <\/em>\u00a0No<em>\u00a0<\/em>doubt Pettit was strongly influenced by Hall&#8217;s book, which she owned, and the work of the weaver Anna Ernberg\u00a0who had assumed the position of\u00a0superintendent of Fireside Industries at Berea College, Kentucky in 1911, but she was embedded\u00a0in the idea of weaving and settlement-work much earlier and had early connections with women who would later shape mountain weaving into an industry.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/VI_36_1184c_mod.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-525\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/VI_36_1184c_mod.jpg\" alt=\"VI_36_1184c_mod\" width=\"1000\" height=\"693\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/VI_36_1184c_mod.jpg 1000w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/VI_36_1184c_mod-300x207.jpg 300w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/VI_36_1184c_mod-624x432.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Pettit made the Pine Mountain valley and the Settlement School her home and along with Ethel de Long, whom she had recruited away from Hindman Settlement School, she began to build the second of her schools in the region. \u00a0Pine Mountain soon became one of the most unique\u00a0and viable\u00a0of the Southern Appalachian rural settlement schools. In that school the sound of the batten, weaving away, has rarely ceased it&#8217;s tempo.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_35_1127a.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-522\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_35_1127a-583x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Vl_35_1127a\" width=\"583\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_35_1127a-583x1024.jpg 583w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Vl_35_1127a-170x300.jpg 170w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 583px) 100vw, 583px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>At Pine Mountain Pettit and her staff did not live in isolation but challenged the people of the region to look beyond the walls of mountains surrounding their valley, to the flood of ideas, economies, and beliefs that would prepare the people of the region for the inevitable changes coming to the mountains. \u00a0Following the turn of the century, industrialization was moving ever closer to the Pine Mountain Valley and Pettit recognized the need to develop a marketing strategy for the mountain crafts to bring money into the area. \u00a0Weaving was part of her plan at &#8220;raising-up&#8221; the mountain people and she set about finding looms, building looms and establishing weaving as part of the school program.<\/p>\n<p><div id=\"attachment_18416\" style=\"width: 635px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-18416\" class=\"size-large wp-image-18416\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/roe_050b-1024x763.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"466\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/roe_050b-1024x763.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/roe_050b-300x224.jpg 300w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/roe_050b-624x465.jpg 624w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/roe_050b.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 625px) 100vw, 625px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-18416\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">0050b P. Roettinger Album. &#8220;Swinging flax. Aunt Sal and Lizzie [Elisabeth Roettinger on right.]&#8221; [roe_017a.jpg]<\/p><\/div>Founded in 1913, Pine Mountain is now celebrating its 100th year of existence.\u00a0 Katherine Pettit retired from the School in 1936 but the school\u00a0archive contains\u00a0numerous directives, letters, invectives, and suggestions that show her connected to the School until her death in 1938. The models of education, farming, health-care, and civic responsibility that Pettit and others at the school provided the people of this long valley, to\u00a0Eastern Kentucky and to\u00a0the state, promised a rich future while preserving the best of the earlier cultural legacy. Weaving at Pine Mountain has had a continuous association with the school since it&#8217;s founding and today it continues to inspire ideas and pride in it weavers.<\/p>\n<p>The beautiful homespun coverlets discovered by Pettit on her mountain rambles became a\u00a0visual passion for Pettit and for others who saw them.\u00a0 It is impossible not to have\u00a0a deep appreciation for the skill and artistry of the craft of weaving and for the women and men who wove the exquisite and complicated patterns found in Pettit&#8217;s collection of coverlets. The mountain coverlet in all its complexity and subtle colors has a deep and extended history in the lives of mountain families with a weft that stretches back to Ireland and to Scotland, to France and to England.\u00a0 \u00a0The coverlet is a visual testimony to the people&#8217;s deep intelligence, creativity, and manual skills, \u00a0Often described as &#8220;asleep&#8221;, &#8220;apart&#8221;, &#8220;lazy&#8221;, &#8220;dull&#8221;, or worse, the early mountain weavers produced some of the most elegant and complex and extensive repertoires of coverlets. \u00a0The Pine Mountain archive has long been the keeper of much of the history that documents the exquisite legacy of weaving in the Kentucky mountains.<\/p>\n<p>From booklets that detail vegetable dying, such as the <a href=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/?page_id=15101\">Katherine Pettit Dye Book<\/a>, to implements that can convey the tactile\u00a0activity of the weaver&#8217;s art, to correspondence related to the marketing\u00a0of mountain craft by novel cooperatives such as Fireside Industries , to the intimate stories of times spent\u00a0in homes where weaving was done,\u00a0 &#8212; the archives at the School\u00a0are rich in weaving lore.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 {\n\t\t\t\tmargin: auto;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-item {\n\t\t\t\tfloat: left;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-top: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 33%;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 img {\n\t\t\t\tborder: 2px solid #cfcfcf;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t#gallery-1 .gallery-caption {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left: 0;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t\t\/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes\/media.php *\/\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-177 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/?attachment_id=15103'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/pettit_dye_book_001-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Katherine Pettit Dye Book\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-15103\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-15103'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Katherine Pettit Book of Vegetable Dyes. pettit_dye_book_001.jpg \n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/?attachment_id=15105'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/pettit_dye_book_003-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-15105\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-15105'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Katherine Pettit Book of Vegetable Dyes.  pettit_dye_book_003.jpg\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/?attachment_id=15104'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/pettit_dye_book_002-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"The Katherine Pettit Book of Vegetable Dyes.\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-15104\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-15104'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Katherine Pettit Book of Vegetable Dyes.pettit_dye_book_002.jpg  \n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Shortly before Katherine Pettit died she left some of her weaving collections to Pine Mountain Settlement School but donated the bulk of her collection in May of 1936 to the Bradford Club of Lexington, Kentucky.\u00a0 Eventually, this large collection found its way into the holdings of Transylvania\u00a0College by way of the\u00a0historic home owned by the college, the Bodley-Bullock House, and under the care of the Junior League.<\/p>\n<p>The Bullock&#8217;s were Pettit&#8217;s family. The home was obviously an active intellectual scene, filled with books and\u00a0art,\u00a0enjoyed by\u00a0the patriarch, Waller O. Bullock, his wife, and children.\u00a0Bullock, a physician and a sculptor, knew well the education of\u00a0joining head and hand and heart, and no doubt passed that along to his children, one of whom was Clara, the mother of Katherine Pettit.\u00a0 The home, located adjacent to\u00a0one of Lexington&#8217;s most impressive parks, Gratz Park,\u00a0 is surrounded by the homes of Lexington&#8217;s creative and intellectual elite, such as Henry Clay, the early entrepreneur William Gratz, \u00a0John Wesley Hunt, the first millionaire west of the Alleghenies, \u00a0and others.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Many of Pettit&#8217;s coverlets and textil<span style=\"line-height: 1.714285714; font-size: 1rem;\">e fragments in both the Pine Mountain collection and the Bodley-Bullock collection\u00a0have, in some cases, \u00a0histories that go back some 200 years.\u00a0 Some have stories, and others have their provenance waiting to be discovered by researchers.\u00a0 But, all have a visual presence that cannot be denied and names that suggest ties with life in the family, region, and country as well as hints of\u00a0ancient balladry and dance in the British Isles.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>For example a beautiful peach and vanilla coverlet with a pattern called &#8220;Kentucky Winding Blades&#8221; in the Lexington collection, has the following attached note:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-54766\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/winding_blades-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"417\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/winding_blades-1024x683.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/winding_blades-300x200.jpg 300w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/winding_blades-768x513.jpg 768w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/winding_blades-624x416.jpg 624w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/winding_blades.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 625px) 100vw, 625px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><em>&#8220;This coverlet was made\u00a0by Granny Stallard\u00a0who was 110 years old when she died about 20 years ago [note:1936].\u00a0 She sent this with a number of other coverlets and blankets with her great, great grandchildren\u00a0to the Pine Mountain Settlement School to pay for their tuition.\u00a0 she said that most of these were made when she was in the &#8220;rise of her bloom&#8221; &#8212; sixteen years old.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Another textile, un-named, a very worn and modified blanket\/shawl has a badly damaged note that reads:<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><em>&#8220;This shawl was willed to &#8230; Uncle Enoch Combs, when he was a young man, not quite 20. [When he was] starting [for war] his sweetheart Nancy St &#8230; him and gave him this shawl [to &#8230;.] him.\u00a0 She told him to f&#8230; [when the] war was over.\u00a0 This he [did ?] &#8230; Uncle Enoch wore the shawl [until he was] an old man with long white [hair].&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Even this fragmented note tells of a very precious warp that is woven with the weft of memories; love, and loss and return and loss, again.\u00a0 So many of the weavings of Appalachia have these stories. They speak to what Eliza Calvert Hall calls the &#8220;Time Spirit&#8221; in her important 1912 book, <em>The Book of Handwoven Coverlets<\/em>. [1]\u00a0\u00a0The &#8220;time spirit&#8221; is found in\u00a0that object that cannot be handled without recalling the life of the past. Many of the names of the coverlets speak to the past times.\u00a0 Stories, such as &#8220;Young Lady&#8217;s Perplexiuty,&#8221; [sic]\u00a0&#8220;Lonley Heart,&#8221; &#8220;Youth and Beauty,&#8221; &#8220;Catch Me If You Can,&#8221; and &#8220;Lasting Beauty.&#8221; \u00a0 &#8220;&#8230; the rise of her bloom&#8221; \u00a0is a mountain colloquial reference to the early adolescence of girls\u00a0as it was often in early these years that girls began to learn to weave and to assemble their house-hold\u00a0textiles for later marriage and their own homes.\u00a0 It can quickly be deduced that coverlets were often seen as the dowry of young girls.\u00a0 Certainly, they were the\u00a0offerings that she carried into her marriage in her &#8220;Hope Chest&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>Eliza Calvert Hall has pointed out that the naming of coverlet patterns is a very imprecise practice. She says, &#8221; &#8230; a design may have one name in North Carolina another in Kentucky, another in Tennessee, and still another in Virginia as if it were a criminal fleeing from justice.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Enoch Combs [the same as mentioned earlier] and his wife Mary were a childless couple who lived at Sassafras, near Hindman.\u00a0 They\u00a0were the hosts\u00a0for a group of young women who came to the third and final\u00a0summer camp in Knott county prior to the establishment of\u00a0Hindman Settlement by Pettit and Stone.\u00a0 Katherine Pettit, of Lexington; Mary E.\u00a0McCartney, of Louisville;\u00a0 May Stone, of Louisville; \u00a0and\u00a0Rae M. McNab, also of Louisville, traveled into what had become familiar, but still, very rugged mountains of eastern Kentucky.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Their summer school at Sassafrass\u00a0in 1901 was the last of a series of summer camps that were established\u00a0to serve the literacy-poor hollows in Knott County.\u00a0The success of these summer camps and the enthusiasm of Pettit and Stone led them to the foundation\u00a0of a permanent school at Hindman in the following year.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-32\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/sas_008-809x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"791\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/sas_008-809x1024.jpg 809w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/sas_008-237x300.jpg 237w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/sas_008.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 625px) 100vw, 625px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The life of the Combs family and their skills at weaving were captured\u00a0in a small album of photographs belonging to Katherine Pettit which she titled\u00a0&#8220;Sassafrass\u00a01901.&#8221;\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0In the small and fragile album, held in the Pine Mountain archive, members of the family and a young lady who was living with the Combs&#8217; are shown\u00a0shearing their sheep, washing the wool, drying the wool, picking and carding, dying the &#8220;hanks&#8221;, \u00a0and finally spinning\u00a0the wool to be placed on spindles.\u00a0 The images freeze this valuable pioneer process in time and allow the viewer to understand the many complex tasks associated with the manufacture of textile in the Appalachians.<\/p>\n<p><strong>FLAX<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The processing of wool is just one of the complex tasks involved with Appalachian textiles.\u00a0 There is another even more arduous series of processes associated with the<strong> flax<\/strong> plant. When Katherine Pettit came to Pine Mountain she met &#8220;Aunt&#8221; Sally Creech. In Aunt Sal\u00a0she had one of the finest weavers and spinners as an accomplice in her search for &#8220;kivers.&#8221;\u00a0 But, she also had a consummate teacher.\u00a0 Aunt Sal was the wife of William Creech, the farmer whose vision of a school caught the imagination of Pettit and whose land formed the basis of the physical site for the Pine Mountain Settlement School. Uncle William grew flax and harvested it to process linen thread. \u00a0Katherine Pettit provided him with the seeds.<\/p>\n<p><div id=\"attachment_31105\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-31105\" class=\"size-full wp-image-31105\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/02\/nace_II_album_059.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"742\" srcset=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/02\/nace_II_album_059.jpg 1000w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/02\/nace_II_album_059-300x223.jpg 300w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/02\/nace_II_album_059-768x570.jpg 768w, http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/02\/nace_II_album_059-624x463.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-31105\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">&#8220;&#8216;Aunt Sal Creech &#8211; retting flax.&#8221; [nace_II_album_059.jpg]<\/p><\/div>The elaborate process of turning flax into\u00a0thread\u00a0was a process learned by many of the Appalachian families whose origins reached back to an Ulster-Scot ancestry. Many of the people of the Southern Appalachians had this ancestry. Ulster, in Ireland, was a center of linen production in Europe and many of the immigrants brought their knowledge of flax farming and linen creation to the New World. It continued as a viable\u00a0occupation for the many Scots-Irish-English-French-Cherokee-German and African American\u00a0families who lived deep in the Appalachian mountains.<\/p>\n<p>At\u00a0Pine Mountain, farmers who maintained subsistance farms in the small valley and hollows and on the steep slopes near the School sometimes found ways to extend their incomes by engaging in flax farming. \u00a0Flax was one of the crops that could be turned to income. \u00a0But, by the turn of the twentieth-century few of these resourceful farmers remained. Pine Mountain was fortunate that some of these flax farmers had passed down their knowledge in the family and there were families that were still growing and weaving with flax.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_28535\" style=\"width: 635px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-28535\" class=\"size-large wp-image-28535\" src=\"http:\/\/staging.pinemountainsettlement.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/floral_III_020_mod-1024x581.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"355\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-28535\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">William Creech supervising the pulling of flax. [floral_III_020_mod.jpg]<\/p><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">When Pettit arrived in the valley she met families with names like Creech, Boggs, Turner, Couch, Combs, Coots, Day, Hall, and more, suggesting that the population was heavily indebted to England in its origins. A study of family names could shed light on possible English or Irish or Scotch origins of textile practice, but unlike tracing ballads or dances, or pageants, the trail for textile arts is not well developed. English families migrated to all areas of the British Isles but it is well-known that many Scots migrated to Ulster where they took up the practice of flax farming and production.\u00a0 However the practice arrived in the Appalachians, the\u00a0production of\u00a0linen thread, an enormously labor intensive and complex process was passed\u00a0along to Uncle William and Aunt Sal. \u00a0They knew the processes but the depth of their knowledge is difficult to determine. \u00a0Just how their processes compared to European practice invites further study.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Certainly Uncle William saw an opportunity to pursue his farming interests and to combine this with the practice of weaving, an art his wife Sally knew well. \u00a0Labor in the nearby school was available to him but he also had a sincere desire to improve the production of farmland, to educate, generally, and he, like Aunt Sal, was a consummate teacher. \u00a0It is also clear that he shared these interests in flax farming with Katherine Pettit.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The raising of flax and its processing for the weaving of linen cloth is another long weaving story. It is evident, however, that farming and weaving and education all make good partners. Whether, wool, flax, or cotton, &#8220;Summer Weave&#8221;, &#8220;Snail&#8217;s Trail,&#8221; or &#8220;Virgil&#8221;, or &#8220;Longfellow&#8221;, the threads come together. \u00a0It is true that the partnership of farming and weaving can be found repeated throughout the world, but the patterns derived from those partnerships are as diverse as the cultures that created them.\u00a0Pine Mountain&#8217;s contributions to a weaving history are many and the contributions of Appalachia have their roots firmly planted in the long histories the earliest families brought to the region whether European, African, American Indian, or South American, or other cultures. There is strong evidence of cultural mixing in both practice and patterns and the research field waits for those who want a rich research project.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">____________________________________<\/p>\n<p><strong>CRAFT WORKSHOPS AT PINE MOUNTAIN SETTLEMENT SCHOOL<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>For a schedule of events at the school , see:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.pinemountainsettlementschool.com\/events.php\">http:\/\/www.pinemountainsettlementschool.com\/events.php<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>WEAVING AT PMSS &#8211; BEGINNINGS One might say that Pine Mountain was\u00a0conceived\u00a0among coverlets.\u00a0 Weaving at Pine Mountain Settlement School certainly was encouraged by the\u00a0re-discovery of the craft of coverlet weaving and the enthusiastic collecting of mountain weaving near the turn of the last century. \u00a0Katherine Pettit, founder of Pine Mountain Settlement School and earlier of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[44,43],"tags":[115,105,61,114,123,113,117,121,16,116,23,122,107,124,46,125,119,120,112,74,111,118],"class_list":["post-177","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-pmss_art_craft","category-cabbage_main","tag-arts-and-crafts-movement","tag-coverlets","tag-education","tag-eliza-calvert-hall","tag-enoch-combs","tag-fireside-industries","tag-flax","tag-granny-stallard","tag-hindman-settlement-school","tag-homespun","tag-katherine-pettit","tag-kentucky-winding-blades","tag-looms","tag-may-stone","tag-pmss","tag-sassafrass-kentucky","tag-spinning","tag-vegetable-dyes","tag-weavers","tag-weaving","tag-weaving-patterns","tag-wool"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v17.1.2 (Yoast SEO v27.7) - 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